The Victoria Hotel - Robin Hoods Bay
Although we didn't stay here they let us change in their bogs and stored out a last minute taxi that was
happy to take dirty bikes and got us to Scarborough Station in time for the last train.

This ride was hard but I would do it again.  Perhaps not by the exact same route, so I could get to ride
more off-road.  The main section I would try to add in are some of the trails over the Great Asby Scar.  I
might have a look at getting to Grasmere by another route other than Greenup Edge.  Finally as mentioned
above I want to find a way to avoid the trails across Flylingdales Moor if it is wet.  With the extra off-road I
would look at completing the crossing in five days.  Although that's only because I have ridden it in four
and satisfied the occasional need I have to make myself hurt, for the moment anyway.

If you think you can handle this route then do it.  It's a great experience and very rewarding.
The route we followed was Kevin Hodgsons route from Offroad Adventures.  The
route guide was well written and once plotted on my OS maps was easy to follow.  
Yes, I admit there were a couple of wrong turns along the way but that was down
to me.  We were trying to keep a constant pace and navigating quickly when tired
accounted for the few errors.  
The biggest error I made was the one on the first day.  This put us into
a very wet bog on the descent to Buttermere
(map link).  We should
have taken the visible trail on the right (see photo).  When we hit the
bog I followed the most obvious track and missed the one that would
have taken us along the right hand side of the valley.  When we
picked the BW back up it soon disappeared
(here), forcing us to blag
some footpaths.  It's probably a better option to stick to the
undesignated track on the map
(map link).

We made a few changes on the second day as we decided to stick to
the road after we left Ullswater and descended off Askham Fell.  We
wanted to save our energy and it didn't miss out on much off-road.  
The end of the day also differed from Kevins route as Keld YHA had
just closed permanently so we stayed in the
Tanhill Inn.  Our route
change took us on a
B-road across the Great Asby Scar and then onto
Soulby.  A section of off-road (with the unnecessary river crossing)
got us to the outskirts of Winton, then on to Cycle Route 67 and the
road climb to the Tanhill Inn.  There was a
BW on the map that climbed
up by Potter Sike, but I didn't risk it due to the previous heavy rain.  I'm
glad I didn't as from the road we could see it crossed a huge bog
covered in streams. This detour missed out the final big section of off-
road but was balanced out the next morning by adding the off-road descent from the Tanhill Inn to Keld.

The only major problem we had with this route were the last trails across Flylingdales Moor.  They were
thick with mud, when they weren't boggy, and that's when we could find the right one.  I will be looking for
some alternatives next time I do this ride, probably staying north of the forest.  It might be alright if it has
been dry for a while though.

It has to be said this trip was hard and tiredness was a big factor.  I know me
and Mark had just had three months off riding but we are both fit riders (we can
finish a
Merida100 in around five hours).  Even though we completed the ride
we definitely underestimated it, especially the first day.  We conveniently
forgot/blanked the warning that the first day could take 12 hours.  When
booking the accommodation for that night I informed them to expect us by late
afternoon, after a 10am start.  Although the ground was very wet from a few
days heavy rain the weather was good, dry with light winds, and it took us
10hours.  The effort of the first day put a big dent in our energy reserves.  
Without a chance to recover the rest of the ride is a much harder prospect than
the contour lines suggested.  Being that tired made any technical riding that
much harder, and the potential for mistakes greater.

Physically we stood up to it ok and came out the other end with no lasting
injuries.  I was the only one who had to recuperate from more than the physical exertion and the saddle
sores cleared up in just over a week.  I will definitely invest in some decent chamois cream next time.

We rode self supported and the only major hassle was using Public Transport instead of a car.  Travelling
by train was a case of not taking 'NO' for an answer.  We had checked the websites for the trains and while
some stated a requirement for booking the ones we used simply said 'Cycles - Yes'.  We still had to fight to
get on.  I plan to use a
mini bus service next time so I can take my car and leave it in one place.

We both took 25 litre packs and just managed to fit in all the kit we
needed.  I also had a large saddle pack which held my tubes and a
comprehensive tool kit.  On top of the normal kit we would take on a
big one day ride we had a dry set of clothes for the evening, wash kit,
sewing kit (added to my first aid kit), one good lock, one helmet light,
one rear light, a waterproof as well as windproof and leg warmers to
supplement our baggies (not good in a fashion sense but lighter than
taking longs and more versatile).
A good inspection of our bikes before we left, along with luck, meant we
suffered no mechanicals.  I did take quite a few spares just in case.  With three
spare tubes each our one puncture was easily handled, even so I will take the
same number of tubes next time.  The biggest, and only real problem with the
bikes, was Marks forks.  The first day in the Lakes highlighted the fact that
steep slopes, a heavy pack and 80mm SIDs don't really mix.  Mark went over the
bars quite a few times because of this combination.  It wasn't long after we got
back that he bought a pair of REBA's with up to 115mm travel.

The plan was to Youth Hostel it the whole way across.  This wasn't possible as
there was no YHA in ST Bees and the rest were booked up or closed (it was
October and the end of the season).  Our plan changed to staying mainly in
Pubs.  This was a little more expensive but a lot more enjoyable.  Being able to
walk in, get changed and sat down quickly to hot food and a nice pint was
fantastic.

The Queens Hotel - St Bees
This was ok if a bit quirky.  Properly old with very few straight walls.  
They were very accommodating with the bikes and allowed us to lock
them up out the back, which could only be accessed through the hotel.
We found ourselves a cupboard with a hot water tank to dry our
clothes, although we forgot to ask if they had drying facilities.  The
food was ok, not outstanding, but they had Rev James on draft which
made up for a lot.  The fried breakfast could have been bigger.
The White Lion - Patterdale
A great pub.  The room was nice.  The food was great and so was the
beer.  Our bikes were locked in their garage.  Breakfast was well made
and there was lots of it.  The only minus point was although our
clothes were put in a room to dry some of them were still wet the next
morning.  But we didn't hang them ourselves so I can't really complain.  
What really stands out was the way they looked after us when we
turned up at 8pm, soaking and dead on our feet.  I would definitely stay
here again.

The Tanhill Inn - North of Keld in the Yorkshire Dales
Another great pub with lots of character.  The ale is fantastic and if you
like Theakstons and Black Sheep you will be in heaven.  The bikes
were locked away in the function room at the back of the pub.  In the
morning our riding kit smelled fresh after taking advantage of their £3
laundering service.  As with the White Lion the food was in big
portions and tasted great.
Osmotherly YHA
Very friendly and definitely the best bike lock up and drying room of
the trip.  Although not up to the level of the pubs the food cost less,
was good quality, came in big portions.  With a selection of really good
local ales and also some whiskey we didn't need to try and drag
ourselves down to a pub.  I would have been happy to have stayed in
a Youth Hostel at every stop over.
Day 1                     Day 2                      Day 3                    Day 4